Hena Ahmed/Kolkata

Have you ever wondered what is the difference between an Awadhi and Lucknowi Biryani; how Shami Kebab was named or the grand entry of Rezala, the famous Kolkata chicken recipe. These and other stories are part of a fascinating account of 500 years of Mughalai cuisine that evolved with time to become an intrinsic part of the Indian cuisine.

The food lovers took a journey down the time at an event, The Mughlai Trail — Enthralling Tales of the Royal Cuisine - held at the Victoria Memorial Hall with Shahanshah Mirza, the great-grandson of King Wajid Ali Shah taking them through an opulent history of Mughlai food and its influence on India.

Mughals have left behind a substantial food legacy starting from the founder of the dynasty- Babur. Shahanshah Mirza, a food connoisseur, quoted Babur: “Babur make merry, for the world will not be there for you a second time.” Mirza said the moment one relishes the food he must give a thought to the mechanism, planning and experiments applied by the Khansamas (Chefs) that have gone into its making. 

Mirza said, “In order to make food more delicious, the chickens were given massages and a Minister of Kitchen looked after the entire process.”

There were Persian influences on the Mughal table, Jahangir married Nur Jahan, she was the only women empress on whose name coin was minted. She made wine and rainbow coloured yoghurt.

Mirza spoke about an interesting anecdote about the use of spices. In 1638 when Agra had become overpopulated, Shahjahan decided to shift to the new city of Shahjahanabad. Unfortunately, in the new city, people were falling sick. The Hakim (Royal physician) suggested the use of turmeric, coriander, and cumin in food to cure them. 

The Mughal culinary Trail

Nuskha- yi Shah Jahani gives a fascinating account of the amalgamation of different culinary traditions. The royal Dastarkhan (Dining table) unified the people.

There were discussions on the origin of Rezala from Bengal and why Mughlai Paratha has nothing to do with Mughals, the difference between kheer and Phirni, Shreemal Paratha, Rogni roti.

Mirza’s love for Biryani is still divided between Kolkata Biryani and Hyderabadi Biryani. He says both are like "my two daughters whom I love equally.” He elaborated on how the techniques are an integral part of cooking. However he also said there was something called “haath ka zaika,” the innate quality of the cook to add magic to the food.

Wajid Ali Shah, the last Nawab of Awadh, is known for creating a mini-Lucknow in Kolkata by introducing kite flying, mushairas and cockfighting. He was buried in Sibtainabad Imambara, Metiabruz in Kolkata, which is open to become the resting place for the people of all communities and thus is a symbol of Lucknowi traditions in Kolkata.

The story of the potato

There is an interesting story about how the potato became an integral part of Kolkata biryani. In early 16th-century potato cultivation started in Surat and reached different parts of the country. The administrators brought it to Bengal and back then it was considered exotic and expensive.

The Awadhi biryani was cooked in dum phukt style in slow heat in which food is allowed to cook in its own steam. After adding potato to it, the aroma and spices seeped inside the potato. Its taste was enhanced and Wajid Ali Shah liked it instantly and he ordered henceforth biryani will always include potatoes.

This is contrary to the belief that Wajid Ali Shah had replaced meat with potato in the days of his penury.

Mirza stressed the fact that Wajid Ali Shah was the highest paid pensioner of his time. He was given an annual pension of Rs 12 lakh. He was never exiled to Kolkata. In fact, he came to the city on his own.  During the uprising of 1857 the English realised his high popularity.

Wajid Ali was arrested under false charges and put in the Fort William’s Amherst House for 26 months. Throughout his life, he remained an epitome of communal harmony, secularism and was ahead of his time.