Tripti Nath/Lucknow
On Independence Day when most citizens were enjoying a national holiday, Kaajal, a ten-year-old horse and her carriage handler (tongawalla) were on official duty along with nine other horses, in Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh.
The 75th anniversary of Independence Day was celebrated in a special way in Lucknow, the city of Nawabs-thanks to Danish Azad Ansari, Minister in Chief Minister Yogi Aditayanath’s cabinet, and the Lucknow Nagar Nigam's initiative.
Juggan Khan, 72, who has been riding single horse-drawn carriages for almost 50 years described this I-Day experience as “unique.”
He is thankful to Danish Azad Ansari, the only Muslim in the Yogi cabinet, in charge of minority welfare, Muslim Wakf, and Hajj, for affording the tongawallas a chance to represent a slice of Lucknow’s heritage on I-day.
Juggan says that Kajaal was on duty on the morning of August 14 and Independence Day. There is a glint of pride in his eyes as he recalls how he and five other tongawallas decorated their tongas with tricolours, and covered a one-kilometer stretch from K.D. Singh Babu stadium to Bara Hazratganj Chauraha, on the eve of Independence Day.
Kaajal-driven tonga in front of Rumi Darwaza, Lucknow
Danish Ansari had requisitioned five tongas and five horses to trot at 9 am for half an hour on the designated one-kilometer stretch. Juggan says besides the tricolour that fluttered on all the tongas, five men were also on horseback.
At the end of the journey, they were rewarded Rs 1000 each. A sizeable number of Madrasa students and Muslim youth also joined this procession. The tongas were decorated with banners of Prime Minister Narendra Modi, U.P. Chief Ministe Yogi Adityanath, and the young U.P, minister Danish Azad Ansari.
On Independence Day, five tongas were hired by Lucknow Nagar Nigam to trot a distance of 1.5 kilometers on another stretch -Nagar Nigam office in Thakurganj-Rumi Darwaza. It is worth mentioning that Rumi Darwaza was built by Nawab Asaf-Ud-Daula, in 1784. Juggan says that the five tongas were decorated with tricolours and tri-coloured balloons. “We were paid Rs 600 each by Lucknow Nagar Nigam.’’
Juggan bought Kaajal in 2019 from a fair in Rahimabad in Lucknow district. “I paid Rs 20,000 for her. She was frail. Now, people offer me Rs 50,000 to Rs 60,000 for her. I would never part with Kaajal even if somebody offered me Rs one lakh. She is very dear to me and is priceless. My Begum (wife) often jokes that I love Kaajal more.’’
The author with Juggan and Kaajal
Khan featured with his tonga in a popular Hindi film starring Amitabh Bachchan and remembers how Bachchan asked the tongawallas if they had eaten well after the shooting got over.
During Covid necessitated lockdown, many tonga wallahs fell on bad days and some were even forced to their horses. “ Uski kamai khaa rahe hain. Kaise chhod dein? (Thanks to Kaajal, I am earning my livelihood. How can I think of leaving her?’ asks Juggan who nursed Kaajal to recovery last year.
He is thankful to the makers of the Bollywood movie Gulabo Sitabo for taking note of media reports on their plight during COVID. “They contacted me, asked for my bank details, and deposited Rs 20,000 in my account. Last summer, Kaajal had typhoid. I would take her on foot three kilometre away to a hospital for horses. They administered glucose and injections. “ Mehant beekar nahi gayi hamari. Upar waale ne use theek kar diya.’’ (By the grace of Allah, my efforts did not go in vain. She is okay now).
"Kajaal trots 10 to 12 km every day," he says.
Juggan says, “I earn about Rs 800 a day taking tourists around Bara Imam Bara, Chhota Imam Bara, Rumi Darwaza, Picture Gallery, Shahi Talaab, and Ghanta Ghar. When filmmakers come here to shoot or when our horses or horse carriages are hired for weddings we earn a little more money. Kaajal has been booked for a wedding party schedued coming December, in Nirala Nagar and the booking will fetch me Rs 3000.’’
The good old sturdy tonga, distinct by its canopy and a pair of large wheels, once ruled the roads in Lucknow. They have featured in many films including Gaddar, Mamata, Paalki, and Mard.
Another tonga in front of picture gallery near the Bara Imam Bara
The once ubiquitous Tongas that dominated the streets of Lucknow have steadily declined over the years. Despite competition from automobiles, they continue to give tourists an experience of the old-world charm of the city.
Maintaining a horse needs money and good care. “It means a monthly expenditure of nearly Rs 8000. Feeding good quality fodder costs Rs 200 every day. The horseshoe needs to be changed every 10 days. All this costs Rs 800. To hire the services of a barber for the horse once a month, one has to shell out Rs 300,“ explains Juggan.
He says that Kaajal needs fodder three times a day which he brings along. “My father Nanhe Khan who ran a horse cart for loading and unloading goods taught me that a horse should never be left hungry. Even if I don’t eat, I make sure that Kaajal gets her fodder. I work in this area for 10 to 12 hours every day and leave Kaajal with a caretaker as there is no arrangement to keep her near my house. I give Kaajal a massage every day.’’
The tongawallas are not sure if their children will contnue to earn a livelihood by riding Tongas but Juggan is confident that his nine year-old grandson, Nihaal will keep the Tonga traditon alive.
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