Onika Maheshwari/New Delhi

Jamalooddeen, a renowned handloom weaver from Cholapur in Varanasi, who has helped revive traditional Banarasi designs, has been conferred the Uttar Pradesh government’s Sant Kabir State Award for his outstanding work in Jamdani and Rangkat saree production.

Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath presented the award to him at a ceremony held in Lucknow. Jamallooddin received ₹1 lakh as prize money.

Banarasi handloom weaving traces its roots to ancient textile traditions and flourished significantly during the 14th century under Mughal patronage. Persian-origin artisans integrated fine silk and gold-and-silver zari brocade techniques with local Indian craftsmanship, giving rise to the distinctive textile tradition centred in Varanasi.

Banarasi sarees are renowned for their intricate weaving techniques, including zari, Jamdani, cutwork, Tanchoi and Rangkat. Thousands of weaver families have kept this art alive for generations.

Jamalooddeen selling his saris at a fair

The global recognition of Banarasi sarees has been further strengthened by the Geographical Indication (GI) tag awarded to them.

Despite this recognition, the handloom industry faces growing challenges from powerlooms and machine-made fabrics. In such circumstances, weavers who continue to preserve traditional techniques are playing a vital role in carrying this rich legacy forward.

#WATCH | Lucknow | Uttar Pradesh Chief Minister Yogi Adityanath presents the Sant Kabir State-Level Handloom Awards on National Handloom Day. pic.twitter.com/VguiikO6zd

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Jamalooddeen, son of Mohammad Islam, has worked as an individual handloom weaver for several years. For the Sant Kabir State Award, he submitted a Jamdani Jungle Rangkat saree.

The saree took approximately 90 days to weave. It features real zari, a pure warp, cotton weft and traditional Rangkat techniques. The saree is 5.65 metres long, with a 122-centimetre blouse piece, and is estimated to be worth ₹1.80 lakh.

Jamaluuddeen’s achievement is a testament to years of struggle, dedication and perseverance. He began working with his father, Mohammad Islam, at the age of 14, learning the intricacies of weaving as a helper in his father’s workshop. Through persistent hard work and innovation, he gradually established his own identity as a master weaver.

The award-winning sari woven by Jamaloddeen

In 2009, he was honoured with the President’s Award for outstanding craftsmanship.

Today, Jamalooddeen owns several handlooms and employs around 30 artisans. His family, too, remains actively involved in promoting and preserving their ancestral craft.

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After receiving the award, Jamalooddeen said the honour was not just for him but for all the weavers of Varanasi. He said his goal was to establish Banarasi handlooms and handicrafts in international markets so that future generations could proudly carry forward the legacy.