New Delhi
“Gharara is not just a dress; it is a cultural legacy of my city. The Rampur gharara was once worn by the Nawabs of the state, who adorned it to enhance their regal and graceful appearance. It is, truly, a royal garment.”
This was said by Shehla Khan, widely credited with reviving the Rampur gharara in the modern fashion world, in a special interview with Anjali Ada of Awaz-the Voice. Shehla describes the gharara as an ancient attire that was once on the verge of extinction.
Tracing its origins, she explains that in 1774, Nawab Faizullah Khan brought skilled craftsmen to Rampur, giving rise to this intricate art form. However, over time, the craft began to fade away.
Reflecting on her own journey, Shehla Khan says her entry into fashion was purely accidental. “I am not just a fashion designer; I am also a lawyer and a social worker. I have even contested elections. During my campaign, I travelled extensively and came across artisans engaged in fine embroidery. When I spoke to them about their lives, I realised how difficult it was for them to make ends meet. It deeply moved me.”
Determined to help, she discussed her ideas with her husband. Initially, her family was sceptical, unsure if she was suited for this field. “But I was clear in my mind. I began working with artisans and started selling my creations on Instagram under the name Rampur ke Gharare. Gradually, orders started coming in. Eventually, my family accepted my new role and extended their full support.”
Shehla recalls that when she began her revival efforts in 2017, she was shocked to find that only one artisan remained. “I informed the administration, and they stepped in to support the craft. Even prison inmates were trained in this skill to help them find employment after release. I also worked towards including it in the One District One Product (ODOP) scheme, and efforts are now underway to secure a GI tag for Rampur gharara.”
Traditionally, the gharara was beyond the reach of common people due to the use of gold and silver threads. “Today, we use alternatives like steel and other metals, making it more affordable. We create bridal wear at reasonable prices, bringing this royal attire to the masses.”
Speaking about her growing reach, she says, “I now have clients across the world. Though my Instagram following is modest, my work has reached nearly 15 million people. I receive orders from across India and abroad. My showroom is in Shaheen Bagh, Okhla, Delhi, and I plan to expand further.”
Her initiative has also generated employment for numerous artisans, helping sustain the craft and their livelihoods.
Explaining the distinction, she notes, “The gharara is more traditional and regal compared to the sharara. Since 2018, ghararas have made a strong comeback in fashion. While designs may be copied, the vision behind them cannot be. My goal is not just business, but to create employment and secure a future for artisans and their children.”
Shehla’s clientele includes several well-known personalities. “Among them are Sana Rehman, Zareen Khan, and Abu Azmi. We have also presented a shawl to Uddhav Thackeray. Our creations are worn across the world, with significant demand from Canada, the United States, Dubai, and London. We also have a large number of Sikh clients. After all, clothing has no religion.”
Shehla credits her mother as her greatest inspiration. “She taught me how to cut and stitch ghararas. Today, I understand the finer nuances of this craft. My family, including my children, has been a constant source of support.”
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